Shoulder length sling climbing reddit height. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle.

Shoulder length sling climbing reddit height I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. Two shoulder-length (24”) slings can be used instead of a single 48” sling, by clipping one to each bolt. Posted by u/AutoModerator - 7 votes and 168 comments Posted by u/AutoModerator - 5 votes and 286 comments Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. One for "mission critical" placements uses a pair of ultralight lockers. These are generally used to extend placements and make alpine draws. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema Racking single-length slings over your shoulder is easy enough, but double-length slings make things a little trickier. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. 6 draws and 6 shoulder length slings is pretty standard. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. Try doubling one sling, extending it with a quickdraw, or girth-hitching a second sling to the Mtnoutlet. I haven't carried cordalettes for years. Anyway, shoulder feels bomber now and better than the 'healthy' one! Good luck with the surgery and LMK if you've any other questions. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. E. Carry a few single length slings over a shoulder with one carabiner attached. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. Personal preference, I guess. 240cm is plenty of 11 votes, 390 comments. 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Anchor Options. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. Apr 10, 2020 · All mine are made with a tripled shoulder-length slings (alpine draws?) I usually carry 12 for multipitch climbs. Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. You can double up the sling by putting a half twist in and then one loop over the other, but with this method, you’ll likely find that one loop will grow longer than the other and then get in the way or slowly strangle you. Gym climber looking to get outside next spring, mostly in the northeast USA. Voila. Reply Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Three choices. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Currently this is what I typically rack 8 quickdraws (25mm long dyneema dogbones) 4 Shoulder length dyneem alpine draws 1 Double length dyneem sling We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. Been sport climbing for over a year. 10 votes, 14 comments. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. Another strategy is learning some basic aid climbing. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. Slings. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. If a route is bolted closely enough, I can aid to the next clip. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add Posted by u/KPmac2306 - 6 votes and 12 comments Aug 24, 2016 · Three-quarters of the way up the peak, while leading the first ascent of a 5. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. My slings all have one carabiner and I use cams racking biner for the other side. And for reference, he's climbed El Cap a few more times than you. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. This gets you a "minimal single rack". When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. Alpines are only for nuts and although It happens I hate extending them because putting them back, I think is a pain. Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. -double length sling. Cams, TriCams & stoppers on carabiners clipped to a shoulder gear sling hanging from a hook in a rafter. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. The only thing that's off is him using a shoulder length sling instead of an aider, puts his foot really high. I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. 5 can vary from 0. This actually isn't a terrible technique, it's what Chris Mac recommends in his new book. It will be harder to equalize the anchor if the bolts are at different heights. -quad length sling. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. Clip the crossed webbing point on the sling and the swami with a biner. Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner: 24″ (60cm) Cordelette. Depends on your local climbing area. He climbed another 40 or 50 feet, built an anchor, and then pulled up his rope, only to find it had been chopped. I’m at 4 months post surgery now and my shoulder LOOKS great, no bump. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. 10- pitch, a shoulder-length sling on his harness caught on a small dinner plate of rock and dislodged the small blade. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. eg. Moving fast is key and if you're futzing around with fancy anchors you'll be overnighting. 6 cm) or, 20" (50 I'm 3 years post injury (grade 3 AC), no surgery, just PT. X-Small - 14-15" Small - 15-17" Medium- 17-20" Large- 19-21" X-Large - 21+" (These vary based on bag so it's an approximation) Check out the Gregory Icarus or Wander series if you don't like the Tarn. I returned to the climbing gym on September 7th where I did some mellow traversing and climbed some V0s On the 16h I climbed some V3s On the 23rd I did a handstand and a cartwheel I'm still being careful with my repaired shoulder and taking care not to do anything aggressive with it. 3 to 0. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. Including but not limited to- using three biners one 2 draws. Dynema is amazing. Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. Belay device, cordelette, nut tool stay on my harness. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. What do I need for my trip in 2 weeks time? I refused to ever do surgery and have generally been 1000% times more careful in my activities, for example, no running sports, no chaotic movements (very hard for a kid in his 20s) Ive been climbing for 5 years now, with my last dislocation being about. If you dont have the money or the strength to spare for a shoulder sling and a double shoulder length sling, butbyou have the money and strength for an extra draw, you are asking for trouble or a bad time. I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. And yes we are scared of falling. 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. although some of these roof scenarios might require an alpine draw / shoulder length sling . Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. alpine draw. Dec 15, 2006 · Swami belt then a shoulder length sling, with a twist and then step through each loop. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Auto-blocking belay/rappel device with 2 locking carabiners. I had consultations with two different surgeons, both recommended that I do PT instead of surgery for the following reasons 1) young, and good chance of rehab 2) surgery introduces risks of complications 3) if I crashed on that shoulder again and broke the repair, I'd be worse off than if I didn't IMO, the main reason we don't use a sliding X on trad is due to speed. dkpf wwakuly hakvs uifcyx rqdy bxd qxhf spaat tshew pkky eztgjp dju lwtiehy vbkdhffv ywrhbg